ATTRACTING BIRDS TO YOUR BACKYARD! STRAIGHT FROM UGA!

Attracting Birds to Your Backyard

Credits to:

Revised by Bob Westerfield, Univeristy of Georgia Extension Horticulturist
Original manuscript by Mel Garber, Former Extension Horticulturist

Birds can be exciting to watch and can enhance the backyard landscape with their beauty and diversity. The ability to attract and hold birds in your home landscape can be enhanced by providing three main ingredients: food, shelter/nesting and water. By providing any or all of these three essential elements, you can enjoy the peaceful pastime of watching more birds in your backyard.
To attract and maintain a bird population, a habitat should provide:

• food
• shelter/nesting areas
• water

Ornamental trees and shrubs can supply the necessary cover (shelter) and nesting areas. Many ornamental plants can satisfy more than one habitat requirement. For example, multi-stem plants that form a dense canopy will satisfy the need for a nesting place and also provide cover.
As much as possible, trees and shrubs in your yard should provide birds a year-round food source. The use of native trees and shrubs will help ensure that appropriate fruits and berries are available for the local bird population. If the landscape does not supply food during certain periods, you can supplement with commercial bird seed mixes to help keep birds in the vicinity of your yard. Some birds eat a wide variety of seeds while others prefer only one or two types; however, sunflower seeds, proso millet seeds and peanut kernels appeal to the majority of birds.
If they are to become long-term residents, birds require a place of cover or shelter to protect them from inclement weather (sun, heat, wind and rain) and natural predators. This is why birds prefer multi-stem plants that form a dense canopy. The dense canopy also provides an ideal environment for nesting. Since birds require shelter year-round, your yard should have a mix of deciduous and evergreen plants. Evergreen plants include broadleaf evergreens, such as holly, and conifers, such as red cedar. Several references suggest that at least 25 percent of the trees and shrubs should be evergreen.
A source of fresh water is also necessary to maintain your bird population. The water source should be shallow (no more than 2 to 3 inches deep) and replaced on a regular basis. Running water, such as a shallow fountain, is ideal. The water source should be elevated or in the middle of an open area to minimize predation by cats and other animals. Birds require water year-round, so it is important to keep it available, even during the winter months.
Below is a list of recommended trees and shrubs to enhance the bird population. Attributes that must be considered before selecting the trees/shrubs for your yard include:

• the habitat element provided
• fruiting season
• deciduous (loses leaves in winter) or evergreen
• size of mature tree (to fit with available space)

Trees and Shrubs for Attracting Birds

Southeastern Trees & Shrubs	Provides		Fruiting Season	Deciduous or Evergreen	Size (small, medium, large)
	Cover	Food
American Beautyberry	X	X	Fall	D	S
Beech		X	Fall, winter	D	M
Black cherry	X	X	Summer	D	M
Black gum	X	X	Summer	D	L
Blueberry	X	X	Summer	D	S
Dogwood	X	X	Fall, winter	D	M
Elderberry		X	Summer	D	S
Hawthorn	X	X	Spring	D	M
Holly	X	X	Winter, spring	E	M
Japanese yew	X	X	Summer, fall	E	M
Magnolia	X	X	Summer	E	L
Oaks	X	X	Fall	D	L
Pines		X	Spring, summer, fall	E	L
Pyracantha	X	X	Fall, winter	E	S
Red cedar	X	X	Fall, winter	E	M
Red maple	X		Spring	D	L
River birch	X		Summer, fall	D	M
Sumac		X	Fall, winter	D	M
Sweet gum		X	Summer, fall	D	L
Viburnum	X	X	Winter	E	S
Wax myrtle	X	X	Summer, fall	E	M
Youpon holly	X	X	Fall, winter	E	S

To make your landscape more suitable for birds, conduct an inventory of trees and shrubs and develop a table similar to the one above. From this list: a) determine the mix of evergreen and deciduous trees, b) look at the time of fruiting and identify season(s) without a food supply, and c) ensure that adequate cover and nesting habitat is provided. The following two examples describe possible situations in your yard and how to use the table:

• You have very few evergreen trees/shrubs (hence minimal shelter in the winter) but also have only small areas for additional plants. Select plants that are classified as evergreen (E) and are small at maturity. Red cedar, nandina, viburnum, pyracantha, Japanese yew, holly and wax myrtle are all relatively small trees.
• You need a food source for the spring but have limited yard area available. An excellent solution is to plant hawthorn, especially mayhaws, which are small multi-stem shrubs that bear fruit in the spring and attract a wide variety of birds.

In most instances, you will find that the addition of a few carefully selected plants can increase the bird population in your yard.

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C 976
The University of Georgia and Fort Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service, the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability. An Equal Opportunity Employer/Affirmative Action Organization Committed to a Diverse Work Force

DEVELOPING YOUR GARDEN - ASPECT

ASPECT

Aspect is the way the sun lights the garden in its daily traversal. Which parts of the garden are lit at which times of the day, and which are predominantly shady determines what use you can make of your garden and which will be the most suitable plants to grow.

26.) Why is aspect so important?

The orientation (aspect) of a garden determines when the sun hits it and for how long. It also affects at what time of day the house and other surrounding buildings will cast shade over the garden. A garden that is filled with light all day or from late morning to midday onwards will be warm. Conversely a garden that receives direct sunlight for only a few hours in the day or late evening will be cold.

27.) How does aspect affect the garden design?

Knowing which parts of the garden will be in the sun and which in the shade at particular times of the year will help you to decide where to site patios and lawns as well as whether to build pergolas or plant trees to cast welcome shade in the summer. A garden that is sunlit all day favors sun-loving plants, whereas a garden that receives only a few hours of sunlight has an aspect that favors cool loving plants, most of which are grown for their foliage. Knowing how much sunlight gets into the garden will help you choose an appropriate garden style – Mediterranean and sun-baked for example – as well as the selection of the most appropriate plants.

28.) Does the direction in which a garden lies affect what will grow?

Gardens facing east will be lit by the morning sun, then be shaded from midday onwards, when the sun is at its hottest. Such gardens will be predominantly cool, an asset to many parts of the southern portion of the country. A west-facing garden is lit from midday onwards, and will be warmer – possibly increasing the number of plants (keep in mind, not always the case. Each plants requirements vary in various parts of the country) that will thrive there.

29.) What are the best plants for a cool garden?

North-facing gardens are cool and shady. If they are enclosed, they may receive no direct sunlight at all, or maybe just a few hours in summer when the sun is directly overhead. Shade-loving or woodland plants do well here – hostas, ferns, Japanese maples and some of the grasses and bamboos. If the garden is paved, as many courtyard gardens are, many of these can be grown in containers. Variegated plants will not do well, they need some sun to bring out the variegation in the foliage. (In summer, bring your houseplants outdoors. Many are rainforest plants that are adapted to low light levels and the cooler ambient temperatures. Be sure to bring them back under cover as temperatures drop in autumn.)

30.) What are the best plants for a hot garden?

South-facing gardens that are hot and dry can be ideal if you want to grow plants that are found in scrubland or deserts in the wild. This category includes most of the woody herbs - lavender, rosemary, sage and artemesia – as well as the associated flora. Brooms will also do well. Cacti can also be grown in containers if you experience wet or cold winters, when they should be brought indoors. Some cacti will withstand a few degrees of frost.

Plants with soft, delicate leaves will not do well in a hot garden. Most shrubs will bask in sunlight for some of the day, but will need watering in prolonged hot spells, or even regularly in warmer parts of the country.

31.) Are there any problems associated with a garden that gets sun early in the morning?

East-facing gardens are delightful first thing in the morning, when they are drenched with sunlight – even, occasionally, during short winter days. But they can be predominantly cold, particularly if they are small as the sun’s rays are not sufficiently strong to warm the ground, even though the air may feel warm.

32.) How can I create shade?

In a hot summer, we all crave shade when we’re outdoors. If you already have a mature deciduous tree in the garden, this is the time of year when it will be in full leaf and casting its heaviest shade. Tall hedges also create shade along certain boundaries, depending on the time of day. You can also create shade in a garden with canopies and sails – which can be moved around the garden as needed.

33.) How can I lighten a shady area?

White reflects available light, so paint walls with white masonry paint to lighten a dark area. Terracotta pots can also be painted. Grow white-flowered plants in containers. If they need sun to flower, place them in sun until the buds begin to open, then move them into shade.

34.) How do I deal with a dry, shady area?

Without doubt, these are the least hospitable conditions for the majority of plants – most will fail to flourish and be reluctant to flower. Ivies do well, however, especially if the soil is alkaline. Hardy cyclamen also thrive in these conditions. Hostas will grow, though the soil should first be improved. However, do not expect them to produce the lush growth they would in moist ground.

35.) What is the solution for a damp, dark garden?

Many town gardens are enclosed and receive little direct light, if at all. These conditions suit many woodland plants, especially those that grow beside streams. Ferns and hostas are ideal, as well as other groundcover perennials such as Ajuga and hardy geraniums. Flowering plants may be reluctant to flower prolifically with no direct sunlight for part of the day. Aim for a tropical look. It is usually impractical to create a lawn in these conditions. Mosses and lichens appear in shady, dark places, so treat these with moss killer. Plant a spring-flowering garden.

36.) The garden is in full sun but the soil is always damp. What should I grow?

Bog plants will thrive her – Rheum palmatum, Rodgersia, Aruncus and, if space allows, Gunnera. Bog plots are always vigorous, as there is a constant supply of moisture reaching the roots.

DEVELOPIING YOUR GARDEN - CLIMATE

CLIMATE

Varies from region to region, with some areas being much wetter, drier, windier, coder or warmer than others. It has a huge impact on garden plants, and the rate at which they grow, which is why gardens vary dramatically in different regions of the country.

11.) What factors affect the climate of the garden?

Distance from the ocean has a great effect on climate. In maritime gardens, the overall temperature range is narrower than inland, with warmer winters and cooler summers. Frosts are rare. The climate is often much more humid, with fogs rolling in off the variation in rainfall depending on the latitude. (Degrees east or west).

Distance from the equator/poles also has an effect on day length. The farther north you go (or south, depending on the hemisphere) the longer the days are in summer and the shorter in winter. This occurs when plants emerge from their winter dormancy in spring and when growth slows down in autumn. The hearer the equator, the longer the growing season. At the equator, plants can be more or less permanently growing at sea level coastal temperatures.

12.) How does the cycle of the seasons affect plant growth?

In winter, plants are dormant, due to the combination of low light levels and low temperatures. This rest period is important to hardy plants. Many fruits trees have a specific chilling requirement, known as “chilling hours”, and without the correct exposure to these freezing hours they will not flower and fruit correctly (read our in depth article ‘Chilling Hours”) in spring, as the temperature rises and day length increases, plants start into growth, with some flowering at this time. After the spring equinox, you can observe a definite acceleration. Spring rainfall encourages plants to put on fresh growth. Late spring to early summer is a high point in the garden with many plants flowering at this time. During the long, sunny days, pollinating insects are also active, feeding, mating and laying their eggs. During the hot days of mid- to late summer, plant growth ceases and seeds ripen. Strong autumn winds encourage plants to shed their fruits or their seeds are carried far and wide. Wind also strips dying leaves from deciduous trees and shrubs ready for their winter dormancy, which starts sometime after the autumn equinox.

13.) What happens to a garden during hot, dry spells?

In hot, dry weather, plant growth above ground stops. Flowers open and are visited by pollinating insects that are usually active in dry spells. Plants set seed, which then ripen. On trees and shrubs, the bark layer thickens and hardens. Left un-watered, plants will struggle to survive and/or die.

14.) What happens to garden plants in prolonged dry spells?

As the ground dries out, plant roots delve deeper towards cool damp soil, in search of moisture. Initially there are no visible signs of the effects of dry weather on plants.

15.) How does heat affect the garden?

Hot, dry spells can affect the appearance of a garden. Flowers are quickly spent, deciduous trees and shrubs can shed their leaves and perennials, annuals and burns can turn yellow and begin to die back. Lawns turn brown. The effects of a garden parched of rainwater are temporary, however, and a spell of rain can soon restore the garden.

16.) What is mean by microclimate?

Microclimate is used in connection with parts of the garden where the configuration of buildings, walls, fences and/or plants creates shelter and the climate in those areas is more benign than in the larger garden. For instance, a west or south facing wall provides protection from winds and heavy rainfall as well as reflecting heat. In such a situation it is possible to grow plants of borderline hardiness that many not flourish in open areas.

17.) What happens to a garden during periods of severed cold?

Hardy plants are adapted to cold conditions – in fact, a cold spell can be necessary for plant health. Plants rest during cold weather, and the cycle of a winter followed by a warm damp, sprig promotes prolific flowering. Plants do not grow in very cold weather, although the roots of a plant will continue to make growth until the ground temperature reaches 42F. This can give the false impression that planting at certain times of the year is a waste, when in fact, it can be the best time for many particular plants.

18.) How does wind affect plants?

Wind is the enemy of all plants aside from autumn when it helps strip leaves from deciduous trees in preparation for winter dormancy and by carrying lightweight fertile seed far from their parents, spreading over as large an area as is possible. But in spring and summer, cold, drying winds can damage the soft leaves of a range of plans, particularly leafy vegetables, hostas, and Japanese Maples. Newly planted conifers are also vulnerable to wind damage. Affected areas of the plant show as unsightly brown patches. A physical barrier is needed to protect them from the worst of the weather.

19.) How does rain affect the garden?

All plants need moisture to grow, but prolonged wet weather can be damaging towards many plants, especially fruit and vegetable crops. The wet encourages leafy growth, and while in the short term this looks very lush, it tends to be sappy and is highly attractive to invertebrate pests. Diseases, especially many fungal ones, are carried in rainwater and will proliferate during a damp spell. Very lush growth that has not been hardened by the sun is very vulnerable to frost. If a damp summer is followed by a hard winter there can be excessive losses in the garden.

20.) How does wet soil affect plants?

The majority of plants DO NOT flourish in soil that is permanently wet. (NOTE OUR PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS!!!) Fungi and bacteria proliferate in water and will feed on plant roots, leading to the plants’ death. Permanently wet conditions cause roots to rot. Plants that are adapted to wet conditions are generally referred to as bog plants.

21.) There are numerous plants that tolerate wet soil, and these are all indicated by individual plant in the catalog.

22.) What is a frost pocket and how does it affect the garden?

A frost pocket is a hollow, dip or area of low ground. During cold nights, frost and cold air settle there and can kill vulnerable plants. Avoid planting frost-sensitive plants here or, if you can, raise the surface of the ground.

23.) What is a ‘rain shadow’ and how does it affect the garden?

The term rain shadow is applied to the strip of land adjacent to a wall of fence about 1 yard deep. During rain showers this area of soil always receives less rainwater than open ground because it is sheltered. This area is therefore unsuitable for plants that prefer reliably moist ground.

24.) What is a drip line and how does it affect the garden?

The drip line is the edge of a trees canopy when it is in full leaf. The soil beneath the canopy is sheltered and receives little moisture.

25.) Does snow affect plants?

Snow does little if any harm to hardy plants which are usually dormant Durant periods of snowfall.  Tall conifers, however, are more vulnerable. Heavy snow can weigh down upper branches and make them break or split. Regeneration in the spring is often poor. To counteract this, brush or shake off snow from the tops of conifers. Conifer hedges should be cut with a gentle slope outwards from top to bottom, so that snow falls more easily away.

On the other handy, snow is very handful and there is hardly a better insulator to protect against severe cold temperatures. Plants that cannot survive certain temperatures commonly do survive even colder temperatures when there is a good layer of snow present to insulate the ground.

DEVELOPING YOUR GARDEN - TOPOGRAPHY

TOPOGRAGHY

Refers to the lay of the land. Many gardens are flat, but others slope or have differing levels throughout the site. Working with the existing topography is easier than trying to change it – one of the challenges of a good garden design.

8).What is meant by the topography of a site?

Topography refers to the degree of slope, if any, as well as mounds and hollows in the landscape. Gardens attached to newly built homes in housing developments are often flat, although awkward sites are also sometimes found. The topography and underlying soil type has a major bearing on the garden design.

9).Should I attempt to alter the topography of a site?

It is usually difficult to alter the lay of the land in a garden. Earth-moving equipment such as bulldozers are needed, and are expensive to rent. Plus, you need to be sure that you can get the bulldozer on and off the site easily. Excavations close to a house or other buildings can also affect the foundations and possibly lead to sagging, sinking or even collapsing. The best advice is to work with the site as it is and to keep any changes to a minimum.

10). How do I deal with a sloping site?

A sloping site can lead itself to dramatic water features, provided there is adequate room to build a large enough tank or pool the required volume of water. A south facing, sloping garden can be terraced to increase the sun-trapping qualities. This suits Mediterranean plants such as rosemary, lavender, sage, brooms, as well as succulents such as agaves, aloes and sempervivums.

To cover a bank, consider planting a climbing plant at the top and allowing the stems to trail downwards. Pinning the stems down where they touch the ground will cause them to root and form an impenetrable ground cover. Clematis and climbing roses can be particularly spectacular grown in this way. In shady sites, try ivies or Virginia creeper. If the garden slopes sharply to one side, you can disguise this with a thick planting of mixed shrubs at the bottom of the slope.

DEVELOPING YOUR GARDEN - SITE

SITE 

1).What is meant by Site Assessment?

When planning your garden, it is necessary to determine what the potential the site offers, and compare it to a realistic wish list of all the things that you would like to see included the design. The ‘site’ will in part determine your choices. To what extent is the garden exposed to or sheltered from the elements? What is the substance of the soil? Are large trees casting excessive shade? Is the site overlooked? What grows well in the type of soil? Will I be able to have a lawn, or is some alternative a more sensible option? What plants will I be able to grow? Will I be able to grow my own fruit and vegetables? Do I have space for a patio or perhaps a deck?

2).Can I assess a site in the middle of the winter?

Yes, you can. But you need to project ahead. If the sun is hidden by clouds, check where it sets to determine the westerly direction. If the sun is out, remember that winter brings longer shadows than summer. Parts of the garden that are permanently shaded in winter can be well lit in summer, depending on the height of any buildings, walls, hedges or other planting.

3).What are the advantages and disadvantages of having and enclosed garden?

Enclosed gardens, with high walls, hedging, or trees surrounding them feel very privates, and so are excellent for entertaining and sunbathing. If the garden is small, deep shade cast by the boundary can be a problem a certain times of the year if the surrounding walls or fences are high. Conversely, they will be very sheltered and provide either a sun-trap or a shady retreat. Gardens in built-up areas are often overlooked by neighbors and the design and planting scheme needs to take this into account.

4).What are the best design solutions for a garden that is dark and enclosed?

An enclosed garden with low light levels has certain advantages in that the temperatures stays relatively constant with no searing heat in summer or extreme cold in winter. An oriental scheme that is predominantly green can be highly effective, focusing on Japanese Maples, ferns and hostas. To add color, grow some of these I gazed oriental containers. Subtropical plants such as bananas (Musa) and tree ferns (Dicksonia) will also do well here. A garden of evergreens will add year-round color.

5).What are the advantages and disadvantages of an open garden?

A very open garden, one that is wide and long with low-growing plants, feels spacious, especially if it backs on to fields. If the garden has a view, you can integrate the landscape into the garden by concealing the boundaries with low-level planting. A downside is that the garden may well be exposed to strong winds and so you may need to plant out the view in order to create shelter.

6).I have read that a large garden should be divided into separate areas. Is this true?

If you set out the garden so that the whole thing can be seen in a single glance you can create a sense of spaciousness – especially if you are able to ‘borrow’ elements such as mature trees, from the surroundings. Dividing a large garden into ‘rooms’ creates mystery and surprises and allows for seasonal plantings with separate areas devoted to spring and summer beds, or perhaps even a winter garden. You can also design around different themes - a Mediterranean garden, a wild garden, a kitchen or herb garden, etc.

7).Is it possible to disguise an awkwardly shaped garden?

Absolutely! Designs built on curves can be easier on the eye since those that rely on straight lines expose shapes that are not symmetrical. You can also disguise an awkwardly shaped garden with thick plantings of evergreen shrubs at the boundaries. Laurels, hollies, privets and viburnums can be highly effective when massed together, or plant carefully so that the eye is drawn to specific areas other than the boundary.

DEVELOPING YOUR GARDEN

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The Genesis of your Garden - Planning and Assessing your Garden

Before you begin doing any work in a new garden, it makes sense to make a thorough assessment of the proposed site. This involves gauging which parts are warmer and cooler (microclimates), and which are sheltered or exposed. Are there any unattractive features the need concealing? You also need to examine the soil. Is it light or heavy? What grows in it now? Does it need improving (amending)? Asking yourself all these questions will help determine whether any preliminary work needs to be done before you start making the garden, and which will be the most suitable plants to grow once you have set it out. It will indicate where to site a patio or deck, a vegetable or flower garden, for example. It will also help you rule out plants that will not thrive, saving you from making possibly expensive mistakes.

The planning and assessing will be broken down into these 8 major sections:

1.SITE

2.TOPOGRAPHY

3.CLIMATE

4.ASPECT

5.CONCEALING UNATTRACTIVE SPOTS

6.SOIL

7.AMENDING SOIL

8.GARDENING STYLES

 

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