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Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Saturday, October 4, 2014
Helping the American Elm make a Comeback
In the 1950’s, 1960’s, and 1970’s, a tragedy struck down the beautiful elms which graced the neighborhoods. Main streets, shady parks, historic sites and tree lined neighborhoods were stripped bare of the graceful elm trees. An epidemic had appeared in the shape of a deadly fungus.
This parasitic fungus was spread by elm bark beetles. These beetles would chew twigs and the crotch of the elm trees releasing the spores of the fungus through the tree’s vascular system. The spores would grow into fungal threads, clogging the elm trees vascular system. The tree would then be denied water and nutrients to the crown of the tree, thereby killing it. This fungus was even worse than the chestnut blight. The elm pathogen destroyed even the root system of the tree which was its host. It prevented the tree from spreading new shoots. An even bigger problem was the disease was spread to nearby trees through natural grafts between the tree roots.
The fungus originally appeared in Cleveland, Ohio in 1930. It was imported from Asia on infected logs from a related elm species. The native species in Asia were resistant to this fungus. In fact, the fungus served a purpose of eliminating old or weak elms to provide room for the new growth. Not so over here. It devastated our American elms almost into extinction.
For the American elm to make a comeback, we have to act now. Most of the American Elms are gone and healthy mature native specimens are rare. However, there is hope. The Princeton Elm has a resistance to this dreaded disease. By planting one now in your yard or your garden, you are planting not only for now but for the future.
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| Beautiful Elms grace this neighborhood |
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| The same neighborhood stripped bare of the majestic Elms |
This parasitic fungus was spread by elm bark beetles. These beetles would chew twigs and the crotch of the elm trees releasing the spores of the fungus through the tree’s vascular system. The spores would grow into fungal threads, clogging the elm trees vascular system. The tree would then be denied water and nutrients to the crown of the tree, thereby killing it. This fungus was even worse than the chestnut blight. The elm pathogen destroyed even the root system of the tree which was its host. It prevented the tree from spreading new shoots. An even bigger problem was the disease was spread to nearby trees through natural grafts between the tree roots.
The fungus originally appeared in Cleveland, Ohio in 1930. It was imported from Asia on infected logs from a related elm species. The native species in Asia were resistant to this fungus. In fact, the fungus served a purpose of eliminating old or weak elms to provide room for the new growth. Not so over here. It devastated our American elms almost into extinction.
For the American elm to make a comeback, we have to act now. Most of the American Elms are gone and healthy mature native specimens are rare. However, there is hope. The Princeton Elm has a resistance to this dreaded disease. By planting one now in your yard or your garden, you are planting not only for now but for the future.
Friday, October 3, 2014
Cold Hardy Camellias
Few woody ornamentals provide as much year-round pleasure as Camellias. During the bleak days of winter, when many plants are dormant, camellias dress up the landscape with their elegant flowers; dark, lustrous, evergreen foliage, and various leaf shapes and textures. A variety of habits abound: from prostrate to columnar, and open to dense.
Cold-hardy camellias have long been a dream of Northern gardeners. Unfortunately, until recently, camellias have not been widely grown beyond the ‘Camellia Belt’ (from South-east to the West Coast; USDA Zones 7 to 9), because of a well-established myth that camellias are not cold-hardy. Yet, many new cold-hardy varieties are just waiting to be used in Northern climes. In the Northeast, judicial selection of fall- and spring-blooming cultivars can result in extended flowering periods, from early October to late April with a break in January and February.
For decades, horticulturists in the North have tried growing Southern camellias – often unsuccessfully. While some camellia cultivars seem to tolerate harsh winters, reliable hardiness was unattainable. These frequent failures further supported the camellia’s reputation for tenderness until recently.
Fortunately, the discovery of an obscure U.S. Department of Agriculture introduction of C. oleifera from northern China with a proven hardiness, has revolutionized the camellia world. C. oleifera grown in the Orient for almost 5,000 years as a source of cooking oil pressed from its seeds, this species has many strains and forms. A survey made in China in 1999, reported that C. oleifera was being grown over an area of 9.7 million acres in that country. This is roughly equivalent to the land area of the Maryland and Connecticut combined. It is not surprising that a select few developed extreme cold hardiness in the northern locations.
An extensive breeding program established at the U.S. National Arboretum in the late 1970’s, incorporated the cold hardiness of C. oleifera with the elegant flowers of the most widely grown standard varieties. As a result, we have a range of both spring and fall-flowering varieties being grown widely through areas of coastal New England, parts of the Mid-West Great Lakes area, and the Lake areas of Canada.
As stated earlier, if northern gardeners are to grow their camellias successfully, they need to follow certain basic principles specific for their climate.
SPRING PLANTING rather than fall planting, as usually recommended in the South. This gives the plants a full growing season before the onset of winter.
Avoid full sun, especially early morning sun. An over-story of evergreen shade trees providing winter protection from sun and wind, is ideal.
DO NOT PLANT TOO DEEP, the top of the media in the container should be level, or slightly above the surrounding ground.
Mulch with pine needles, pine bark, or no –packing leaves, to a depth of 3-4 inches. Camellias prefer
Slightly Acid, well, drained soils similar to azaleas and rhododendrons.
Newly planted camellias may need some cold weather protection during the first several winters. A wind and sun screen may be made with a circle of stakes around the plant, and then wrapped with burlap (or Microfoam) with several inches of dry leaves are examples. If a source of Microfoam can be found, it is not necessary to use leaves.
DEER love the tender camellia leaves! Fence small plants, or cover with black netting.
Numerous books and articles on the best camellia varieties and their culture have been written by, and directed towards, growers and landscapers in the South (’Camellia Belt’). While these publications are valuable for growers in that area, their recommendations can be misleading and sometimes, disastrous, in northern climates.
A recent book ‘Beyond the Camellia Belt’ by Dr. William Ackerman, gives comprehensive advice on succeeding with camellias in colder climates. A few examples of which are included above. The book also includes descriptions and photos of the 65 cold hardy varieties recently introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum, Washington, D.C.
Cold-hardy camellias have long been a dream of Northern gardeners. Unfortunately, until recently, camellias have not been widely grown beyond the ‘Camellia Belt’ (from South-east to the West Coast; USDA Zones 7 to 9), because of a well-established myth that camellias are not cold-hardy. Yet, many new cold-hardy varieties are just waiting to be used in Northern climes. In the Northeast, judicial selection of fall- and spring-blooming cultivars can result in extended flowering periods, from early October to late April with a break in January and February.
For decades, horticulturists in the North have tried growing Southern camellias – often unsuccessfully. While some camellia cultivars seem to tolerate harsh winters, reliable hardiness was unattainable. These frequent failures further supported the camellia’s reputation for tenderness until recently.
Fortunately, the discovery of an obscure U.S. Department of Agriculture introduction of C. oleifera from northern China with a proven hardiness, has revolutionized the camellia world. C. oleifera grown in the Orient for almost 5,000 years as a source of cooking oil pressed from its seeds, this species has many strains and forms. A survey made in China in 1999, reported that C. oleifera was being grown over an area of 9.7 million acres in that country. This is roughly equivalent to the land area of the Maryland and Connecticut combined. It is not surprising that a select few developed extreme cold hardiness in the northern locations.
An extensive breeding program established at the U.S. National Arboretum in the late 1970’s, incorporated the cold hardiness of C. oleifera with the elegant flowers of the most widely grown standard varieties. As a result, we have a range of both spring and fall-flowering varieties being grown widely through areas of coastal New England, parts of the Mid-West Great Lakes area, and the Lake areas of Canada.
As stated earlier, if northern gardeners are to grow their camellias successfully, they need to follow certain basic principles specific for their climate.
SPRING PLANTING rather than fall planting, as usually recommended in the South. This gives the plants a full growing season before the onset of winter.
Avoid full sun, especially early morning sun. An over-story of evergreen shade trees providing winter protection from sun and wind, is ideal.
DO NOT PLANT TOO DEEP, the top of the media in the container should be level, or slightly above the surrounding ground.
Mulch with pine needles, pine bark, or no –packing leaves, to a depth of 3-4 inches. Camellias prefer
Slightly Acid, well, drained soils similar to azaleas and rhododendrons.
Newly planted camellias may need some cold weather protection during the first several winters. A wind and sun screen may be made with a circle of stakes around the plant, and then wrapped with burlap (or Microfoam) with several inches of dry leaves are examples. If a source of Microfoam can be found, it is not necessary to use leaves.
DEER love the tender camellia leaves! Fence small plants, or cover with black netting.
Numerous books and articles on the best camellia varieties and their culture have been written by, and directed towards, growers and landscapers in the South (’Camellia Belt’). While these publications are valuable for growers in that area, their recommendations can be misleading and sometimes, disastrous, in northern climates.
A recent book ‘Beyond the Camellia Belt’ by Dr. William Ackerman, gives comprehensive advice on succeeding with camellias in colder climates. A few examples of which are included above. The book also includes descriptions and photos of the 65 cold hardy varieties recently introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum, Washington, D.C.
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| Camellia oleifeera |
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| Camellia oleiferra 'Winters Star' |
Monday, September 29, 2014
Planting Trees in the Fall
Believe it or not, planting trees in the fall is a viable option. The cool temperatures, more frequent rainfall and warm soil make it a perfect planting time. You get the root growth which will be more than ready for the spring rains that arrive in April. When the leaves start to show in the spring, the increased root growth will be able to drink the rainwater and the stress of being transplanted is greatly reduced.
When you do decide to plant a new tree, perhaps ordered from your favorite online garden center, you need to dig a wide shallow hole. If you plant a new tree too deep, you can kill it. So the hole should be wide, shallow and two to three times the size of the root ball. This is so the root ball can spread out and not be bunched up. Place the tree gently in the hole, spread the roots out and gently fill the dirt in around the tree base. Make sure you water the tree thoroughly so that there aren’t any air pockets. Place mulch around base of the tree with 2 to 3 inches deep. Don’t make it a volcano with the tree out of the top but place the mulch around the tree in a circle without actually touching the tree base. The tree will need about an inch of water per week until the ground is frozen. You can also wrap the trunk of a thin barked tree in November if you live where it’s cold. You have to remember to remove the wrap in March though.
So what would be a good tree or two for planting in the fall? The Rising Sun Redbud is a vigorous grower. It has a full, rounded shape that holds its color into autumn. There is also a third season of interest which is provided in early spring by sweet pea-type flowers, rosy-orchid in color. These flowers appear before the foliage in spring and will attract both bees and butterflies. The new foliage is a brilliant rosy-apricot and the bark is a smooth tan with a yellowish cast. The bright rosy apricot leaves mature to summer foliage which ranges in color from gold to peach and apricot and lime. A beautiful tan bark with a yellowish cast extends the peachy color scheme into the winter. This tree is perfect for smaller gardens with a mature height of only 12 feet.
Another thought for fall planting is the Princeton Elm. The Princeton Elm is cold hardy in the bitter cold of the northern plains but is also at home in the sweltering heat of central Florida and central Texas. It also thrives in all regions in between. An elm tree is the perfect addition to your backyard, and as a shade tree, there is no equal. The Princeton Elm gracefully arches over and gives a cathedral appearance. Plus being Dutch Elm Disease resistant you don't have to worry about a dying tree in your yard.
Planting trees isn’t just for spring, as you can see, you can also plant trees in the fall successfully!
When you do decide to plant a new tree, perhaps ordered from your favorite online garden center, you need to dig a wide shallow hole. If you plant a new tree too deep, you can kill it. So the hole should be wide, shallow and two to three times the size of the root ball. This is so the root ball can spread out and not be bunched up. Place the tree gently in the hole, spread the roots out and gently fill the dirt in around the tree base. Make sure you water the tree thoroughly so that there aren’t any air pockets. Place mulch around base of the tree with 2 to 3 inches deep. Don’t make it a volcano with the tree out of the top but place the mulch around the tree in a circle without actually touching the tree base. The tree will need about an inch of water per week until the ground is frozen. You can also wrap the trunk of a thin barked tree in November if you live where it’s cold. You have to remember to remove the wrap in March though.
So what would be a good tree or two for planting in the fall? The Rising Sun Redbud is a vigorous grower. It has a full, rounded shape that holds its color into autumn. There is also a third season of interest which is provided in early spring by sweet pea-type flowers, rosy-orchid in color. These flowers appear before the foliage in spring and will attract both bees and butterflies. The new foliage is a brilliant rosy-apricot and the bark is a smooth tan with a yellowish cast. The bright rosy apricot leaves mature to summer foliage which ranges in color from gold to peach and apricot and lime. A beautiful tan bark with a yellowish cast extends the peachy color scheme into the winter. This tree is perfect for smaller gardens with a mature height of only 12 feet.
Another thought for fall planting is the Princeton Elm. The Princeton Elm is cold hardy in the bitter cold of the northern plains but is also at home in the sweltering heat of central Florida and central Texas. It also thrives in all regions in between. An elm tree is the perfect addition to your backyard, and as a shade tree, there is no equal. The Princeton Elm gracefully arches over and gives a cathedral appearance. Plus being Dutch Elm Disease resistant you don't have to worry about a dying tree in your yard.
Planting trees isn’t just for spring, as you can see, you can also plant trees in the fall successfully!
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| Beautiful Growth on the Redbud Rising Sun continues all summer long! (above) |
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| A street lined with Princeton American Elms. Whether planted as a single specimen in your yard or grouped in a thoroughfare, it is easy to see why this is America's tree icon. Absolutely stunning! |
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Wrapping Up Your Garden
This is the time of year when the heat of the summer dies down and you start to think about preparing your garden for winter. When you take the time to put your garden to bed, then spring’s garden is less work. But what steps should you take to get your garden ready for winter’s icy kiss?
First of all, cut back what’s overgrown and dead and clean up your garden debris. This means you’ll need to remove any spent annuals, vegetable plants and fall leaves. This will help to eliminate any diseases or pests that like to over winter in the dead plants and leaves. When you make your garden less inviting, then you have fewer problems come spring.
Second, make notes and take pictures of your gardens. See what worked, what didn't work and see where there are bare spaces. You can make decisions of what you want to plant to fill in the spots. This is also the perfect time of year to plant some shrubs or trees, so give those some thoughts. Since the air is cool but the soil is warm, the shrubs and trees will need less energy. This will let the roots become established before it gets too cold.
Third, cut back your perennials a few inches above the ground. The plants will come back next year because the roots are below ground. You can also divide day lilies and irises, clear through the month of September. You can trade with other gardeners or order some of the daylilies and irises through an online garden store. You will have some gorgeous new colors come spring that will delight your eyes. Also, now is the time to plant spring blooming bulbs. What better way to celebrate spring then with an explosion of color after the snow melts and the cold weather goes away.
Fourth, don’t forget to winterize your containers. Some containers aren't made to be outside all winter and you may want to put them in a shed or garage. Also dump out the dirt and clean and scrub containers that you are planning to use next year. When the containers are all scrubbed, cleaned and ready to go in the spring, you’ll be happy you did. Then all you’ll have to do is put in fresh potting soil, the plant and you’re set.
Fifth, perform a soil test and see if your soil may need amended. If you amend the soil with organic natural compost, manure, blood meal, bone meal or all amendments, they’ll have time to break down over the winter. When spring arrives, then there is food for your plants and they’ll grow healthy and strong.
Sixth, make sure you mulch, mulch, and mulch. When you mulch in the fall it provides a layer of protection over the plants roots. In cold climates, mulch helps to prevent frost heave and it will keep the temperatures of the soil more even and protect the roots even more.
Putting your garden to bed for the winter isn't difficult. What you do now not only will save you time in the spring, but will also save your plants.
First of all, cut back what’s overgrown and dead and clean up your garden debris. This means you’ll need to remove any spent annuals, vegetable plants and fall leaves. This will help to eliminate any diseases or pests that like to over winter in the dead plants and leaves. When you make your garden less inviting, then you have fewer problems come spring.
Second, make notes and take pictures of your gardens. See what worked, what didn't work and see where there are bare spaces. You can make decisions of what you want to plant to fill in the spots. This is also the perfect time of year to plant some shrubs or trees, so give those some thoughts. Since the air is cool but the soil is warm, the shrubs and trees will need less energy. This will let the roots become established before it gets too cold.
Third, cut back your perennials a few inches above the ground. The plants will come back next year because the roots are below ground. You can also divide day lilies and irises, clear through the month of September. You can trade with other gardeners or order some of the daylilies and irises through an online garden store. You will have some gorgeous new colors come spring that will delight your eyes. Also, now is the time to plant spring blooming bulbs. What better way to celebrate spring then with an explosion of color after the snow melts and the cold weather goes away.
Fourth, don’t forget to winterize your containers. Some containers aren't made to be outside all winter and you may want to put them in a shed or garage. Also dump out the dirt and clean and scrub containers that you are planning to use next year. When the containers are all scrubbed, cleaned and ready to go in the spring, you’ll be happy you did. Then all you’ll have to do is put in fresh potting soil, the plant and you’re set.
Fifth, perform a soil test and see if your soil may need amended. If you amend the soil with organic natural compost, manure, blood meal, bone meal or all amendments, they’ll have time to break down over the winter. When spring arrives, then there is food for your plants and they’ll grow healthy and strong.
Sixth, make sure you mulch, mulch, and mulch. When you mulch in the fall it provides a layer of protection over the plants roots. In cold climates, mulch helps to prevent frost heave and it will keep the temperatures of the soil more even and protect the roots even more.
Putting your garden to bed for the winter isn't difficult. What you do now not only will save you time in the spring, but will also save your plants.
Saturday, June 28, 2014
The 'Dirty Dozen' - Fast Growing Trees to Avoid Planting
Some trees that grow quickly should be avoided because of weak wood, numerous pests and diseases, invasive roots, a short life span, or other undesirable qualities. Here is the "dirty dozen":
Leyland Cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii)
Zone 6 to 10
This tree has so many negative characteristics, its success is truly a testament to the nursery industry's marketing efforts. Granted, it grows very rapidly, eventually reaching a height of 70 feet or so. However, with a life expectancy of only 25-35 years, it essentially starts to decline just as it's reaching its full height, and it is susceptible to a host of insect and disease problems. Bagworms are a major issue, requiring either hand-picking or spraying with an insecticide-and either hand-picking or spraying a 50-foot tall tree is a major (and expensive!) undertaking.
Diseases affecting Leyland cypress includ seiridium canker, botryosphaeria canker, cercospora needle blight, and a variety of root diseases. And think about it: Does your home landscape really need a hedge the height of a five-story office building? Compounding the problem is the fact that people often plant large numbers of these trees as monoculture screens, which means that whatever affects one plant will likely affect all of them. To add insult to injury, some salespeople cheerfully suggest planting these trees twice as close together as they should be planted, saying, "You can always take out every other tree when they get crowded," and you have a recipe for disaster. This is the source of the largest number of tree problem calls to our Extension Master Gardener Volunteer office Information Line.
Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford')
Zone 5 to 9
Bradford bear is the source of the second largest number of problem calls. This is a lovely tree: the spring bloom display is breathtaking, the overall shape is exceptionally symmetrical, and the fall color is glorious. It grows rapidly to 30-50 feet, with a spread of 20-35 feet, and it tolerates a range of soil conditions. Unfortunately, its branching structure leads to large branches or whole sections of the tree simply splitting away from the trunk during winds or ice/snow events. At that point, its highly symmetrical profile is no longer even remotely symmetrical; since they're often planted in matched sets lining a driveway, the beauty of the entire planting is irrevocably damaged. They are also, unfortunately, an invasive plant in many areas of the country. To top things off, Bradford pears have a fifteen-year life expectancy-essentially making them "disposable" trees. Avoid at all costs.
Walnut (Juglans nigra)
Zone 4 to 9
Black walnut is a beautiful tree, reaching a height of 75-100 feet, with a spread to match. It tolerates drought and rabbits, provides edible fruit, and makes a lovely shade tree. Unfortunately, its roots produce chemicals called juglones, which are highly toxic to a wide range of desirable landscape plants (azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries, peonies. tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes). Additionally, the husks of the nuts can stain clothing and sidewalks, so unless you have a really large landscape that will allow you to give this tree its own space, you'd do well to stay away from black walnut.
White Mulberry and Red Mulberry (Morus alba, Morus rubra)
Zone 4 to 8
Growing to 35-50 feet, with a spread of 35-40 feet, these are attractive, easily grown trees with interesting foliage and edible fruit. Their fruit is very attractive to birds, they tolerate a variety of growing conditions, and they naturalize well (and are, in fact, native to much of the country). However, both of these trees have weak wood and very weedy seedlings; white mulberry is invasive through much of the country, while the fruit of the red mulberry is very messy and will stain clothing and patios. Borers, whiteflies, bacterial blight, coral spot canker, bacterial leaf scorch, powdery mildew, root rot, and witches broom are a few of the other problems that can affect the trees, along with scale, mites, and mealy bugs. All in all, best to give this one a wide berth.
Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
Zone 4 to 9
Sycamore can be a magnificent specimen, growing 75-100 feet tall and wide, with a trunk diameter easily reaching 8 feet, characterized by mottled, exfoliating bark. Sadly, it is prey to sycamore anthracnose, a significant disease that can severely damage the tree. Canker, leaf spot, powdery mildew, borers, scale, Japanese beetles, caterpillars, and mites all afflict sycamores. More important to homeowners, though, is the fact that litter from the leaves, twigs, bark, and fruiting balls pose significant problems in terms of maintaining a neat landscape. With so many marvelous trees available that don't have these problems, why invest in this one?
White Pine (Pinus strobus)
Zone 3 to 8
White pine is a moderate-sized tree, reaching a height of 30 to 40 feet and a spread of 7-10 feet. Unfortunately, it is affected by white pine decline, which causes needle discoloration and browning, shriveled bark, oozing sap, and, in some cases, death. It's also vulnerable to injury from salt spray, ice damage, and winter burn, and it's susceptible to ozone damage, an increasing threat in urban/suburban areas. White pine is also much loved by bagworms and yellow-bellied sapsuckers. Again, why plant a tree that you know is prone to this many problems?
Birch (Betula spp.)
Zone 4 to 9
Several varieties of birch are lovely landscape plants; a few sport dramatic exfoliating bark. In addition, many thrive in wet environments; avoid planting in a hot, dry location, and aim for afternoon shade. Generally reaching 40-50 feet, occasionally available as a clumping tree with 3-5 stems, birches, particularly river birch (Betula nigra), are popular landscape plants. Many birch varieties are susceptible, though, to the bronze birch borer, a tree killer, and they have a very shallow root system that can be easily damaged by soil disturbance. Birch leaf miner is another significant problem, and control requires spraying, which is time-consuming and costly. Not a tree to be avoided at all costs, but think carefully before planting.
Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra)
Zone 3 to 9
Avoid this tree at all costs. Characterized by a very tight columnar shape, the Lombardy Poplar can exceed 100 feet in height within 20 to 30 years. However, at that point, it's also reached the end of its life expectancy, so it's another "disposable" tree as opposed to a permanent landscape addition. Lombardy poplars have structurally weak branches that break easily when stressed by wind, snow, or ice. Leaves and branches shed, causing sanitation issues in a home landscape. Roots can invade sidewalks and damaged sewer lines. There are few redeeming characteristics other than its rapid growth rate. Save your money and invest elsewhere.
Norway Maple (Acer platanoides)
Zone 3 to 7
An easily grown tree, Norway maple will reach 40 to 50 feet in height with an almost equal spread, and it tolerates air pollution and drought quite nicely. It has a few problems (verticillium wilt, which can be fatal, as well as sunscald and cracking of the bark), but the a more significant issue is its thick leaf canopy and shallow root system that severely limit what can be planted within the tree's drip line. Combine that with the fact that Norway maple is considered invasive in ever-widening areas of the country, and it adds up to another tree to avoid.
Empress Tree (Paulownia tomentosa)
Zone 3 to 8
Native to Central and Western China, the "royal empress tree" (it's marketed under a variety of names) bears strikingly large leaves and showy, fragrant flowers on a frame that grows 30-40 feet tall and wide. Unfortunately, its wood is weak and subject to breaking, and the tree, marketed as "easily propagated," is so easily propagated that it's become invasive in much of the eastern half of the country. We don't need more of these planted; they're spreading quite nicely on their own without our assistance.
Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana)
Zone 3 to 7
A lovely tree that will grow to around 30 feet, with a spread of perhaps 15 feet, the mountain ash is a good food source for a variety of wildlife. That's all good, but the list of potential problems includes borers, aphids, sawflies, scale, mites, fire blight, rust, and scab. Cankers, crown gall, and powdery mildew may also attack. Seriously now: do you want a tree with this many potential problems in your landscape?
Mimosa Tree (Albizia julibrissin)
Zone 6 to 9
Native to Iran and Japan, the mimosa tree is a lovely, delicate-looking tree with fern-like foliage and showy, powder-puff-like pink blooms. It tolerates high temperatures and a wide range of soils, including high alkalinity. It grows rapidly to 20-40 feet, with a striking vase shape that makes it a lovely accent tree for a home landscape. Those are all strong positive attributes, but the Mimosa is susceptible to a serious wilt problem, as well as mimosa web worm. More significant to homeowners, though, is the fact that it is a prolific self-seeder, so you rarely have "just one" Mimosa. The wood is weak, and is often damaged in storms. To top it all off, most folks plant it near the house so they can enjoy its lovely flowers from a patio, and as the blooms fall, they (and the leaves and seed pods) drop onto the patio, where they become a significant housekeeping issue. Best to enjoy this plant in someone else's landscape.
Austree (hybrid between Hankow willow [Salix matsudana] and white willow [Salix alba])
Zone 2 to 9
If you're looking for a temporary windbreak or an erosion control solution, this could be your tree. It will never be a suitable shade tree, thought, and experts recommend planting it-if at all-along with more "permanent" trees if you're using it in a windbreak or screening application. The hybrid Austree will, indeed, grow up to 10 feet annually in moist sites, reaching a height of 35-45 feet and up to 30 feet in width. "Live fast, die young," though, applies to the Austree. Like most fast-growing trees, it has extremely weak wood that is very susceptible to storm damage, and it drops leaves and small branches non-stop. Add to that its susceptibility to disease and insect problems, and you have a tree with very limited application and desirability.
Leyland Cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii)
Zone 6 to 10
This tree has so many negative characteristics, its success is truly a testament to the nursery industry's marketing efforts. Granted, it grows very rapidly, eventually reaching a height of 70 feet or so. However, with a life expectancy of only 25-35 years, it essentially starts to decline just as it's reaching its full height, and it is susceptible to a host of insect and disease problems. Bagworms are a major issue, requiring either hand-picking or spraying with an insecticide-and either hand-picking or spraying a 50-foot tall tree is a major (and expensive!) undertaking.
Diseases affecting Leyland cypress includ seiridium canker, botryosphaeria canker, cercospora needle blight, and a variety of root diseases. And think about it: Does your home landscape really need a hedge the height of a five-story office building? Compounding the problem is the fact that people often plant large numbers of these trees as monoculture screens, which means that whatever affects one plant will likely affect all of them. To add insult to injury, some salespeople cheerfully suggest planting these trees twice as close together as they should be planted, saying, "You can always take out every other tree when they get crowded," and you have a recipe for disaster. This is the source of the largest number of tree problem calls to our Extension Master Gardener Volunteer office Information Line.
Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford')
Zone 5 to 9
Bradford bear is the source of the second largest number of problem calls. This is a lovely tree: the spring bloom display is breathtaking, the overall shape is exceptionally symmetrical, and the fall color is glorious. It grows rapidly to 30-50 feet, with a spread of 20-35 feet, and it tolerates a range of soil conditions. Unfortunately, its branching structure leads to large branches or whole sections of the tree simply splitting away from the trunk during winds or ice/snow events. At that point, its highly symmetrical profile is no longer even remotely symmetrical; since they're often planted in matched sets lining a driveway, the beauty of the entire planting is irrevocably damaged. They are also, unfortunately, an invasive plant in many areas of the country. To top things off, Bradford pears have a fifteen-year life expectancy-essentially making them "disposable" trees. Avoid at all costs.
Walnut (Juglans nigra)
Zone 4 to 9
Black walnut is a beautiful tree, reaching a height of 75-100 feet, with a spread to match. It tolerates drought and rabbits, provides edible fruit, and makes a lovely shade tree. Unfortunately, its roots produce chemicals called juglones, which are highly toxic to a wide range of desirable landscape plants (azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries, peonies. tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes). Additionally, the husks of the nuts can stain clothing and sidewalks, so unless you have a really large landscape that will allow you to give this tree its own space, you'd do well to stay away from black walnut.
White Mulberry and Red Mulberry (Morus alba, Morus rubra)
Zone 4 to 8
Growing to 35-50 feet, with a spread of 35-40 feet, these are attractive, easily grown trees with interesting foliage and edible fruit. Their fruit is very attractive to birds, they tolerate a variety of growing conditions, and they naturalize well (and are, in fact, native to much of the country). However, both of these trees have weak wood and very weedy seedlings; white mulberry is invasive through much of the country, while the fruit of the red mulberry is very messy and will stain clothing and patios. Borers, whiteflies, bacterial blight, coral spot canker, bacterial leaf scorch, powdery mildew, root rot, and witches broom are a few of the other problems that can affect the trees, along with scale, mites, and mealy bugs. All in all, best to give this one a wide berth.
Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
Zone 4 to 9
Sycamore can be a magnificent specimen, growing 75-100 feet tall and wide, with a trunk diameter easily reaching 8 feet, characterized by mottled, exfoliating bark. Sadly, it is prey to sycamore anthracnose, a significant disease that can severely damage the tree. Canker, leaf spot, powdery mildew, borers, scale, Japanese beetles, caterpillars, and mites all afflict sycamores. More important to homeowners, though, is the fact that litter from the leaves, twigs, bark, and fruiting balls pose significant problems in terms of maintaining a neat landscape. With so many marvelous trees available that don't have these problems, why invest in this one?
White Pine (Pinus strobus)
Zone 3 to 8
White pine is a moderate-sized tree, reaching a height of 30 to 40 feet and a spread of 7-10 feet. Unfortunately, it is affected by white pine decline, which causes needle discoloration and browning, shriveled bark, oozing sap, and, in some cases, death. It's also vulnerable to injury from salt spray, ice damage, and winter burn, and it's susceptible to ozone damage, an increasing threat in urban/suburban areas. White pine is also much loved by bagworms and yellow-bellied sapsuckers. Again, why plant a tree that you know is prone to this many problems?
Birch (Betula spp.)
Zone 4 to 9
Several varieties of birch are lovely landscape plants; a few sport dramatic exfoliating bark. In addition, many thrive in wet environments; avoid planting in a hot, dry location, and aim for afternoon shade. Generally reaching 40-50 feet, occasionally available as a clumping tree with 3-5 stems, birches, particularly river birch (Betula nigra), are popular landscape plants. Many birch varieties are susceptible, though, to the bronze birch borer, a tree killer, and they have a very shallow root system that can be easily damaged by soil disturbance. Birch leaf miner is another significant problem, and control requires spraying, which is time-consuming and costly. Not a tree to be avoided at all costs, but think carefully before planting.
Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra)
Zone 3 to 9
Avoid this tree at all costs. Characterized by a very tight columnar shape, the Lombardy Poplar can exceed 100 feet in height within 20 to 30 years. However, at that point, it's also reached the end of its life expectancy, so it's another "disposable" tree as opposed to a permanent landscape addition. Lombardy poplars have structurally weak branches that break easily when stressed by wind, snow, or ice. Leaves and branches shed, causing sanitation issues in a home landscape. Roots can invade sidewalks and damaged sewer lines. There are few redeeming characteristics other than its rapid growth rate. Save your money and invest elsewhere.
Norway Maple (Acer platanoides)
Zone 3 to 7
An easily grown tree, Norway maple will reach 40 to 50 feet in height with an almost equal spread, and it tolerates air pollution and drought quite nicely. It has a few problems (verticillium wilt, which can be fatal, as well as sunscald and cracking of the bark), but the a more significant issue is its thick leaf canopy and shallow root system that severely limit what can be planted within the tree's drip line. Combine that with the fact that Norway maple is considered invasive in ever-widening areas of the country, and it adds up to another tree to avoid.
Empress Tree (Paulownia tomentosa)
Zone 3 to 8
Native to Central and Western China, the "royal empress tree" (it's marketed under a variety of names) bears strikingly large leaves and showy, fragrant flowers on a frame that grows 30-40 feet tall and wide. Unfortunately, its wood is weak and subject to breaking, and the tree, marketed as "easily propagated," is so easily propagated that it's become invasive in much of the eastern half of the country. We don't need more of these planted; they're spreading quite nicely on their own without our assistance.
Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana)
Zone 3 to 7
A lovely tree that will grow to around 30 feet, with a spread of perhaps 15 feet, the mountain ash is a good food source for a variety of wildlife. That's all good, but the list of potential problems includes borers, aphids, sawflies, scale, mites, fire blight, rust, and scab. Cankers, crown gall, and powdery mildew may also attack. Seriously now: do you want a tree with this many potential problems in your landscape?
Mimosa Tree (Albizia julibrissin)
Zone 6 to 9
Native to Iran and Japan, the mimosa tree is a lovely, delicate-looking tree with fern-like foliage and showy, powder-puff-like pink blooms. It tolerates high temperatures and a wide range of soils, including high alkalinity. It grows rapidly to 20-40 feet, with a striking vase shape that makes it a lovely accent tree for a home landscape. Those are all strong positive attributes, but the Mimosa is susceptible to a serious wilt problem, as well as mimosa web worm. More significant to homeowners, though, is the fact that it is a prolific self-seeder, so you rarely have "just one" Mimosa. The wood is weak, and is often damaged in storms. To top it all off, most folks plant it near the house so they can enjoy its lovely flowers from a patio, and as the blooms fall, they (and the leaves and seed pods) drop onto the patio, where they become a significant housekeeping issue. Best to enjoy this plant in someone else's landscape.
Austree (hybrid between Hankow willow [Salix matsudana] and white willow [Salix alba])
Zone 2 to 9
If you're looking for a temporary windbreak or an erosion control solution, this could be your tree. It will never be a suitable shade tree, thought, and experts recommend planting it-if at all-along with more "permanent" trees if you're using it in a windbreak or screening application. The hybrid Austree will, indeed, grow up to 10 feet annually in moist sites, reaching a height of 35-45 feet and up to 30 feet in width. "Live fast, die young," though, applies to the Austree. Like most fast-growing trees, it has extremely weak wood that is very susceptible to storm damage, and it drops leaves and small branches non-stop. Add to that its susceptibility to disease and insect problems, and you have a tree with very limited application and desirability.
Saturday, June 7, 2014
Give Dad a different kind of Father's Day Gift and let him know he's SPECIAL!
A Different Kind of Father’s Day Gift
If you are tired of giving your father the same gift of
aftershave, ties or new socks for Father’s Day, why not try something
different? Why not plant a tree?
When you plant a tree to honor your father, it can show how much you cherish
all the ways he has supported you through the years. As the tree grows, it will
be a symbol of his importance in your life. He was there when you needed him;
he guided you through the good times and the bad and gave you direction when it
was needed. symbol of your love and affection for him.
If you father has passed away, you can plant a tree in
memory of him. As time passes and the tree grows, it will remind you that even
though he isn’t here in body, he is here in spirit. Looking at the growing tree will bring back fond memories and of the times you and he shared together. It’s
a perfect way to honor his memory.
We here at Leaves
and Petals Garden Center have many trees for you to choose from. For
instance, there is the Princeton
American Elm which is a true American elm; therefore it will grow in the
same areas once enriched by this beautiful tree.Father’s Day Tree.
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| An American Elm lines the street |
Fringetrees
or Old Man’s Beard, are excellent anywhere that a very small tree is
needed, such as near a patio, in small yards, or under power lines. Like many
white-flowered plants, they look especially nice planted in front of a dark
backdrop. They can be used as individual specimens, in groups, in mixed shrub
borders or in natural gardens. They are well suited to urban plantings due to
pollution tolerance and adaptability to varied soils. With the white fringes
which look like a beard, if your father has a beard, it’s the perfect tree!
 |
| Fringetree or Old Man's Beard |
 |
| Dynamite Crape Myrtle |
The Dynamite® Crape
Myrtle grows upright and has leaves that appear crimson at first but change over the summer to a medium green. Dynamite's buds are crimson before flowering and
bloom into cherry red flowers; these are true red, much redder than the cultivars that were
available in the market previously. The flowers will be a dark scarlet red on
hot sunny days and may appear lighter red on cloudy cooler days. This particular Crape Myrtle will definitely
get your father’s, and all the neighbors, attention.
 |
| Ginkgo leaves turn beautiful gold in the fall |
Another interesting idea is to get your father the oldest known tree. Yes, that is correct ... there is a tree that has been around (at least it's unchanged progeny has) since rocks were formed. Can you imagine how interesting this tree would be to your father, especially if he is a plant lover? The tree is the Ginkgo biloba tree. It is a very large tree, and there was a time it would have been planted only where there was a lot of space for it to develop. But with the advent of the dwarf varieties, such as Mariken and Jade Butterfly,bonsai, these are two 'must-haves' for his collection. Even if not a bonsai lover, either of these trees give Dad the perfect conversation piece and you the opportunity to be uniquely thoughtful in your gift giving.
the smallest of areas can be used to display these trees. If he likes the art of
These are just a few of the many trees we have here at Leaves and Petals Garden Center, where our customers always come first. Come
and check out some of our other tree selections and make this Father’s day
outstanding!
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